Exploring Coorg in
the Monsoons
Every year, as the
monsoon hits the city, the wanderlust bug inside me awakens. Although the rains
have a calming effect on my mind and body, my spirits seem to be on a joyride,
wanting to go out and into nature. What better way to fuel that fire than indulge
in a trip to a faraway land?
Exploring Coorg in The Monsoons
[ photo: thrillophilia.com ]
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And so, a couple of days ago, I reached Coorg for
the much-needed tryst with nature. Why Coorg, you may ask? Because the charm of
this hill town increases by ten times in the rains. The valleys become mistier,
the plantations denser, and the hills come alive with the sound of the clouds.
A great journey
starts with a great ride. Since it had been raining for a few days and the
roads could be tricky, I booked a reliable and comfortable cab from Bangalore to Madikeri.
Almost half of my journey was under a blanket of grey clouds
chasing my car, occasionally pouring its love on the way. The non-stop highway,
music on my ears, and the breathtaking views en route made it a perfect
journey.
I usually like to
do random things on a vacation, but this time, I thought of going conventional
(or touristy, I would say) and booked myself one of the best Coorg sight seeing taxi packages.
This included my ride from Bangalore to Coorg and back, with
two-days of local sightseeing tour, and I could keep the car with me all
through. Practically also, it made sense, since rains could pick up anytime and
make it difficult to walk around or look for local transportation.
So, here’s how it’s
been so far.
Day 1
The colorful (but
mostly green and grey in the monsoon) town of Coorg is packed with interesting
things and sights at every turn. I started my first day of the tour with a
coffee plantation tour at the Mercara Gold Estate. It was huge and misty from
the overnight rain showers.
This is the harvest season for Arabica beans and
the workers were busy at their tasks, as a colony of bees. There was also a
brewing area, where homegrown beans were ground, brewed, and filtered for
tourists to enjoy. It was indeed a unique experience to have a cup of coffee
sitting in a coffee plantation.
From there, I
headed to see the famous Abbey Falls. The roaring cascade was in full swing
after the rains and cut through thick plantations of coffee and spices. It
seemed like a very popular hangout for locals and tourists and the pool was
swarming with people.
I prefer to be in less crowded areas, so I cut that tour
short and decided to go elsewhere. My cabbie suggested another waterfall, the
Chelavara Falls, which is ‘not so popular’ but I might like. We had to drive for
another hour outside the town to reach this waterfalls in the wild.
While the
Abbey Falls is more famous, I found the Chelavara Falls to be more attractive
and hiding in plain sight. It was a peaceful zone with the only sound of the
torrential streams flowing down the hills. It was worth the visit.
Later in the day, I
stopped by Madikeri town and went shop hopping, sampling local food (and lots
of coffee) and picking up handcrafted knick-knacks.
Day 2
The second day of
my tour package involved a trip to the wonderful Dubare Elephant Camp. It was
an hour’s drive from town and into the forested areas of Coorg. Herds of
elephants of all sizes and ages were playing in the muddy ponds, while some
were being fed by tourists.
It was fun to watch them, especially the baby
elephants in their playful mode. From there, I was supposed to visit the
reserve forests of Nisargadhama. On the way, I asked my driver about this
Tibetan community of Bylakuppe I had once read about in a travel blog. Turned
out, it was en route and I instantly canceled the plan to tour the forest and
visit Bylakuppe instead.
It is the only
Tibetan community of the region and once I was there, I forgot I was in
Karnataka and not somewhere in Himachal. We passed the Tibetan market, lined
with small eateries and cafes, where monks and other locals were going about
their day’s business. I headed straight to the Namdroling Monastery, the
biggest in Coorg and one of the largest in India.
From a distance, I
could spot the pagoda, its golden towers glistening against the cloudy sky. It
was late afternoon and the temple had reopened for its evening prayer sessions.
The monks, clad in maroon garbs were busy attending to their tasks and
preparing for the prayers.
Inside the colorful façade, lied the main altar.
Despite the activities around, the temple was peaceful and calming. It had just
started to rain outside. I found myself a place on the porch and let myself get
lost in the prayer chants with the background sound of the pattering rains.
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